Florida Toilet Repair Near Me

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Toilet Repair Services Near Saint Petersburg, Florida

Safety Harbor, Bridgeport, Mecca, Greenbriar, Oldsmar, South Highpoint, Dunedin, Four Corners, Clearwater, Feather Sound

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be among the most typical– and disturbing– plumbing problems you could experience in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continuously, a toilet repair is an issue you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and keep them in good working order as they are among the most significant fixtures in a plumbing system. We don’t offer them much attention till something goes wrong and they stop working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among property owners’ most typical residential challenges. Many will try to fix the issue, only to find that the fix did not work or that the issue reappeared.

When the issue requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Pinellas County, Florida locations, our local plumbing expert team can handle toilet repair quickly and effectively, and at a reasonable cost.

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Most Common Problems with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to handle. Nonetheless, not all services need emergency plumbing services.

Let us to go through a few of the standard problems dealt with by consumers that have called us for suggestions on how to repair them:

Moaning sounds:

If you hear groaning sounds from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing:

Either of these 2 problems will potentially trigger the unit to flush and begin filling on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, resulting in a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even 3 times. A high water level is usually the source of this issue. Changing the float control within the tank will typically fix this issue.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leak from the tank into the bowl is the source of the issue here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is undoubtedly to blame.

Changing a worn or damaged flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then replace the flapper.

Sluggish flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that links the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle correctly inside the bowl.

Base leaks:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipe at the base of the unit must be changed if it leaks when flushed. This process requires an expert plumbing service.

Not flushing totally:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for a proper water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and style for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Blocked holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a poor flush. To clean any clutter, gently jab each flush opening with a curved piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Typical Toilet Problem Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the top tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with only a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where 2 essential valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where much of the toilet repairs happen.

You will be surprised to learn that most issues are reasonably simple to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried out a brand-new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, don’t give up hope. Here’s a solution that makes sure it works.

Few home annoyances are quite as annoying as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear refilling frequently, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit could be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drainpipe opening (flush valve drainpipe seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water till the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water drips out, creating the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware store or home center to find an identical one.

Note: Occasionally, a brand-new flapper does not fix the issue. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is possibly rough or pitted.

You can replace the complete flush flapper valve; nonetheless, it is not an easy job, and it may need the experience of a plumber near Saint Petersburg, Florida.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, search for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to purchase a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the damaged seat with the adhesive supplied.

First, close the water to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to enable the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Use a sponge to eliminate the water that stays entirely.
Follow the included instructions to set up the new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a kit that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to remain open. If your unit utilizes more than this, eliminate the timing cup.
  Set up the new flapper.
With the flapper down, readjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to test the flush.

Note: You may have to fiddle with the chain length-size to get the flapper working correctly.

When finished, remove the excess chain to prevent it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If shaking the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any one of these basic fixes possibly will.

The handle is a primary device– only a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is much easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be mounted correctly. Loosen up the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top side of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, cover the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, slide the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a new one if the threads are too damaged or damaged.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Look into the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
If there are problems, replace the complete handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before buying a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain attaching the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, replace it.

Buying Tips for Toilets

Fed up with your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and want to get a brand-new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with an array of options. Use the following ideas for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summers are damp where you live, and you don’t have A/C, you’ve possibly spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the outside of a toilet can trickle down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated tanks to prevent condensation problems. Look into this alternative if you have “sweating” issues.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the bowl’s rim– the standard height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, often called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The added heights offered make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging people. Designs for youngsters with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most common style in homes. Yet one-piece designs are offered. Two-piece designs are generally less expensive; one-piece designs typically have shorter tank and are much easier to clean.

One-piece designs are the favorite of many property owners because of their smooth, sleek appeal.

Price:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not immediately suggest better efficiency. Many of the best models we have tested were relatively cost-effective and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Fashion is fickle. Stick to a white or beige color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have plenty of room above or beside your toilet, this probably isn’t all that essential. Be sure to choose a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

Purchasing a proper style is very important, to save yourself a return trip to the shop, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that secures the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind it. A 12-inch “rough-in” is the most common measurement; nevertheless, in some older properties, you might have a ten-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Ensure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl shape:

A lot of unit designs marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are good if the area is tight.
Elongated bowls have a more extended rim– as much as 2-inch longer– and need more room.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are typically much more comfortable for adult use which helps boost health and wellness. Assess your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before choosing the bowl shape.

Footprint:

If you install a brand-new toilet with a smaller tank, you may have to repaint the part of the wall surface covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a large footprint on the floor, you might have to patch and fix the floor part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You may also have to replace the whole floor before setting up a brand-new unit.